Glanearagh Cliffs are the huge west facing cliffs to the North of Puffin Sound. The closest approach is to take the green lane down from the farm at the end of the road and follow the coastline past Puffin Sound.
In 1994 there was an access problem with the farmer who was afraid of
legal liability in the case of an accident. A longer but more discrete
approach is from the road to the north east of the cliffs.
The Rock: Flaky in places and can require careful handling. The routes described here are on the large pale cliff characterised by two huge corners. At the highest point of the crag is a grassy gully, access to all three routes is by a long abseil down this and the left wall of the right hand corner.
A stake has been left at the top, a rebelay is possible 30m down. Three ropes tied together were used for the abseil, the second climber should take care not to ‘stone’ the first one down.
1. Virgin Atlantic 150m E2 This climbs the thin groove on the left side of the arete between the two main corners.
1. 35m 5b Climb the thin clean groove, moving left at the bulge. Continue up easier rock to the foot of the next groove.
2. 35m 5b Follow the groove to its top and traverse the right wall to the arete and up to a grassy ledge.
3. 20m 5a Climb the arete to a foothold on the right side, level with an overhanging groove system.
4. 30m 5a Traverse left under the bulge and climb the well cracked groove, step right and follow slabs to a grass ledge.
5. 40m The grassy gully. C.Jackson, J.Fleming, W.Briggs 22.5.94
2. The Great Escape VS 165m
The Easiest way off the crag, serious though straightforward. It takes the right-hand corner, starting right of this at below a grass ledge.
1. 35m 4a Climb to the grass ledge.
2. 10m 4a Climb the wall on the left and traverse into the corner at a quartz band.
3. 40m 4a Bridge up the corner taking care not to dislodge loose stones.
4. 40m 4a Continue until possible to belay on the back wall of the grass ledge.
4. 40m The grassy gully C.Jackson, J.Fleming 23.5.94
If you love Hiking and mountain climbing then you must try your skill at these.
The Black Valley Cliff.
The Black Cliff.
By the way have you any stories or information or help concerning climbing in County Kerry you would like to offer? If so please email me at the link below and I will add it to the appropriate page.