Coomachuillin also known as “The People's Crag.” Is in the Glenbeigh Horseshoe and it overlooks the south shore of the small lake called Lochachuillin in the hanging corrie south of the main Coomasaharn Lake.
The crag is composed of compact sandstone, is very steep and protection
is difficult to arrange. Three gullies split the crag: this route
follows a line up the L of the buttress to the R of the central gully.
Start: at a cairn below a steep slab.
1/. 40ft. Gain the slab on the L. Move R and continue to ledge on top R of slab.
2/. 30ft. Up a short slab then easy rock to a grass ledge.
3/. 120ft. Climb the wall above, mostly on the R. Cross the grass rake (about 40ft) to belay in a corner 20ft below a large square overhang.
4/. 20ft. Pull out R - awkward - and continue up to belay just under the overhang. Peg in place.
5/. 60 ft. Climb the groove on the L. Move slightly R and continue to belay in a dark corner on a long sloping ledge.
6/. 80 ft. Move out R - delicate - to a small R-ward sloping slab. Climb this and continue up the groove above. Fine situation. H. O'Brien, T. Hand. 9th July 1977.
Dagda. 330ft. HVS
Route is on L-hand buttress.
Start: (marked by cairn) 20ft. R of stream which flows down R-hand side of crag.
1/. 50 ft. Climb on small ledges to R until rake slanting L-wards is gained. Follow this until flat-topped block is reached.
2/. 60 ft. (crux). From top of block step R onto wall. Make very delicate moves traversing R to open corner. Layback up this and make very awkward exit to heather ledge. Move L at first then climb up to bottom of groove, with large crack in back of same.
3/. 50 ft. Climb crack and belay underneath overhang.
4/. 90 ft. Move L over easy ground and gain top of L-hand end of overhang. Step up delicately and continue R to arete to belay.
5/. 80 ft. Continue up arete until rock runs out. H. O'Brien, E. Goulding. 20th May 1978.
Falcon's Belly 280 ft. VS
This route is started from very large grass ledge midway up R-hand buttress. The ledge is gained by climbing up L-ward slanting rake (easy) which starts at bottom.
1/. 40 ft. Start from L-hand end of ledge. Cross gully and climb wall on doubtful holds to belay.
2/. 30 ft. Continue up to R-hand end of large overhang.
3/. 90 ft. Traverse L underneath overhang (peg runner). Exit on L-hand end of overhang. Climb up to foot of R-ward slanting slab. Belay here.
4/. 70 ft. Climb slab and continue traversing R until one overlooks the gully.
5/. 50 ft. Climb wall above to broken ground. E. Goulding, H. O'Brien. 21st May 1978.
Above and to the R of the three main buttresses is another large area of rock. It is separated from the main crag by a wide, steep gully, sloping up from R to L. This buttress has two faces, set at R-angles to each other, the R-hand black and overhanging, the L-hand less steep but undercut at the bottom.
Tradesman's Entrance 220 ft. VS (mild)
Below the undercut L wall a slab slopes up R-wards into the angle between the two faces. Start at the bottom of this slab.
1/. 120 ft. Move from L to R across the slab to climb thin cracks to a grass ledge. Continue up a deep narrow chimney in the centre, and on to the top. Huge pinnacle belay.
2/. 40 ft. Climb the corner for about 20 ft. Make a thin foot traverse L to gain the obvious L-sloping ramp. Move up a few feet to a little bay.
3/. 60 ft. Continue up the ramp to the top. T. Hand, S. Nolan. 20th may 1978.
If you love Hiking and mountain climbing then you must try your skill at these.
The Black Valley Cliff
The Black Cliff.
By the way have you any stories or information or help concerning climbing in County Kerry you would like to offer? If so please email me at the link below and I will add it to the appropriate page.
Kerry Mountain Climbing
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