Bolus point is the headland about 1km north of Bolus Head. The routes are on an extensive fan of clean sandstone slabs with prominent overlaps, just south of the point. The easiest approach for the slabs is to take a rising traverse line from the cottage at the end of the road from Ballinskelligs.
alternative approach that is better for The Event Horizon is to park at
Ducalla at the south end of Saint Finan’s Bay and head up the hillside
to a low saddle on the skyline with some small drystone walls. Behind
the saddle, a dramatic sheep path leads south across the hillside into
the inlet behind Bolas Point.
The slabs have a vertical height of 200m and offer potential routes lengths of over 300m which may be the longest in Ireland. At 2/3 height is an easier angled section called The Ripple which allows escape leftwards.
Approach: From the top of the slabs, make careful descent down the grassy left side to where a diagonal abseil can be made for the last 25m to a ledge and corner opposite the N end of the sea washed block.
1. Soft Shoe Shuffle
1. 35m 5a From the stance, climb a shallow groove, cross two overlaps and traverse right to a belay on shallow flakes.
2. 35m 5a Continue diagonally right passing small overlaps. An awkward move allows access to a second slab and larger overlap. Cross this to a belay on its edge.
3. 30m 5a Climb the edge of the slab for 3m, traverse diagonally right for 5m to a diagonal line, then left to finish on the shoulder. J.Fleming, P.Hully 29.5.95
2. Desert Storm Start a t the foot of a long corner which leads up from the south end of the sea washed block
1. 45m 4c Follow the curving right facing groove to a belay on the left.
2. 30m 5a Move right and climb the thin slab to a niche in the overlaps above.
3. 40m 5b Climb steeply up and left onto a hanging slab, move up and left to the overhang, traverse left to a left facing groove and climb this to a belay.
4. 45m 4c Pull out right from the groove onto a slab which is followed to the ripple.
5. 20m 4a Easily up to grass on the left. J.Fleming P.Hully June 95
3. Sandscape This tackles the overhangs close to the right side of the slabs.
1. 40m 5a From the stance, take a rising traverse right up a band of ripples, cross a small overhang and climb up to an overlap with good Friend placement. Traverse right to belay in a shallow groove.
2. 40m 4c Continue in roughly the same line to a belay to a ledge at the top of a hidden groove running up from the sea washed block.
3. 50m 4b Step down into the groove and follow obvious flakes right across the slabs to a crack and footledge belay.
4. 10m Climb up to a better ledge.
5. 35m 5c Step left and follow a poor crack to an overlap, cross this right, move up and left and cross the overlap onto a well cracked slab. Follow the crack round an overhang then traverse right to belay in a corner.
6. 30m 5b Climb the wall and crack above the belay until possible to work left to a belay on a grass ledge.
7. 50m Follow the ripple left.
8. 35m 4c Continue left then up to the grass. C.Jackson, W.Wintrip 31.5.95
The next route is on the west face of the inlet behind Bolas Point. Much of the upper part of the crag is guarded by overhangs and the crag in characterised by bands sediments dipping steeply to the right. Scope remains.
If you love Hiking and mountain climbing then you must try your skill at these.
The Black Cliff.
By the way have you any stories or information or help concerning climbing in County Kerry you would like to offer? If so please email me at the link below and I will add it to the appropriate page.