Many thanks to the authors for their excellent detail on the climbs.
This small headland of clean, wave washed rock can be reached from Portmagee by crossing the bridge, turning left and following the small road to where the track to Bray Head leaves it. Turn right through Bray and before the gate follow a rough track to the right as far as possible onto smooth sheep cropped grass. It is possible to get a vehicle to within 30 seconds of the climb.
Main identifying features are two deep inlets Cooshennaghruhage reached first and then Coosnaraka. Between the two Coos’ is a sea stack separated by a narrow channel. North of this the landward wall extends to the edge of the second Coos and contains the first 4 routes. Approach is by abseil to a barnacled ledge accessible in calm seas at ½ tide. Routes are described from R to L.
1. Nanny State 20m E2 Start at the right end of the ledge, just right of a small niche at 2m. 1. 5c Make a difficult entry unto the niche (peg), then continue past two more peg runners up the fine brown wall, finishing up the leftward break or, more boldly by breaking out right and ascending the wall above. Little natural protectio J.Fleming, C.Jackson 6/6/99
2. My Goat’s got No Nose 20m HVS Start right of the last route at a prominent short groove. 1. 5a Climb the groove to a ledge on the right. Continue up a steep wall with excellent incut holds to the quartz break, then into a short hanging groove, exiting right to finish. C.Jackson J.Fleming 31/6/99
3. A Goat Too Far 20m E1 1. 5b Climb the steep wall left of My Goat’s and into a left slanting crack. Follow this to the break then steeply up the headwall trending left to the top J.Fleming C.Jackson 31/6/99
4. Acting the Goat 35m VS Start near the left end of the barnacled ledge below a thin left slanting crack. 1. 16m 4c Climb to the crack and follow this to the quartz ledge, then round into the Coos to a belay on a ledge. 2. 12m 4b Follow ledges left until escape is possible up the steep wall. J.Fleming C.Jackson A/L 8/6/99
The next 3 routes are on the section of rock between the second Coos and a deep cave. Access is by abseil to a small ledge close to the sea on the left (facing out) for route 5 and to a small hidden ledge on the edge of the cave for 6 and 7.
5. Small but Perfectly Formed 20m Vdiff From the ledge climb pleasant slabs, finishing up or right of a shallow groove. C.Jackson J.Fleming 30/5/99
6. Slow Goat to China 15m VS 1. 4c From the belay ledge, pull boldly over the overhang onto the stab and continue in the same line to the top. C.Jackson J.Fleming 31/5/99
7. The Disappearing Goat of Voltair 18m VS 1. 4c From the belay ledge follow the ramp leftwards in alarming position to a steep crack. Climb this to the top. J.Fleming C.Jackson 31/5/99
Left of the deep cave, a barrier of slime-guarded overhangs prevent sane access to the upper walls. Further left (North) the platform rises up in a gentle fold. The next route is characterised by a quartz band at 10m. Access is by abseil onto the upper end of the platform, which is non-tidal.
8. Goat’s Head Revisited 35m E2
Originally climbed as 3 pitches, the first two can be sensibly combined.
Escape is possible by avoiding the traverse.
1. 20m 5b Climb to the quartz band and make an awkward move right to
better holds. Climb a ramp and cracks to the top.
1a 25m 5b After the quartz band move up to the obvious traverse line and
continue steeply, past a narrow section to a good ledge.
2. 10m 4c Up the wall to the top.
J.Fleming C.Jackson A/L on P1 30/5/99
9. To Boldly Goat 18m E2 Start just left of a prominent slot, 5m left of GHR. 1. 5b Climb into the RH of two small grooves, move left and go up to a ledge. Step right and climb boldly up the bulging wall on huge holds. J.Fleming C.Jackson 30/5/99
If you love Hiking and mountain climbing then you must try your skill at these.
The Black Valley Cliff
The Black Cliff.
By the way have you any stories or information or help concerning climbing in County Kerry you would like to offer? If so please email me at the link below and I will add it to the appropriate page.