Cliffs At Bray Head Valentia Island
This small headland south west of Ballinskelligs harbour is unnamed on the 1:50000 series Discovery Map. Access is by walking across fields from the parking spot near the jetty. 5 minutes The Crag is about 25m high and characterised by two caves separated by a central pillar taken by Rockin’ with the Pippits and Razor’s Edge.
At low tide it is possible to scramble across to all the routes in the main area. At other tides, access is by abseil down the central pillar or down the Black Slab to a hanging belay.
1. Rockin’ with the Pippits HVS 25m
Start in the LH cave (facing in) at the base of a prominent slab. 1. 30m Climb the corner of the slab to gain the front of the pillar. Continue pleasantly up the pillar to a rather Sea Pink finish C.Jackson J.Fleming 5/6/99
2. Razor’s Edge E4 35m
The route climbs the pillar and then follows the prominent rightward traverse over the cave. The main problem is placing protection from a hand traverse position, as there are no footholds. The lip of the cave below is razor sharp.
1. 35m 5c Climb the pillar to where a prominent diagonal crack leads right above the lip of the cave. Hand-traverse this past a section with no footholds and a peg runner until possible to stand into the break. Climb the steep brown wall on excellent rock (1/2 Friend) to a loose but better protected finish. Rest taken on peg – frightened. C.Jackson J.Fleming 6/6/99
To the right of the RH cave is a prominent black slab. At low tide it is possible to abseil down it to a sloping ledge on the left.
3. The Black Slab VS 25m
1. 4c With feet on the slab climb the corner to grass ledges The slab can also be climbed at 5c/6a by taking a belay on the bottom right edge of the slab. Difficulty depends on line taken; there are some small cracks for runners. J.Fleming C.Jackson 7/6/99
4. A Bit on the Side E2 25m
This takes the shallow sloping groove that rises from half way down The Black Slab. Start as for The Black Slab or take a hanging belay below the groove. 1. 5c Climb the wall past a peg to reach a sloping ledge. From here follow the groove past two more pegs until it is possible to exit right into an easier groove. Little natural protection. C.Jackson J.Fleming 7/6/99 The next route is separate from the others. Approach by traversing west round the bay past a prominent almost-stack with overlapping slabs. Beyond this descend towards the cave beneath the stack and make a short abseil (or climb down) to a ledge above the sea.
On Golden Pond VS 20m
1. 5a Traverse up and right to below a small roof. Make an awkward move to gain the base of an obvious groove. Follow the groove and then the right wall to the top. J.Fleming C.Jackson 7/6/99
If you love Hiking and mountain climbing then you must try your skill at these.
The Black Valley Cliff
The Black Cliff
By the way have you any stories or information or help concerning climbing in County Kerry you would like to offer? If so please email me at the link below and I will add it to the appropriate page.